
Neighbourhoods4 min read
Dongmen: the Shenzhen that came first
Before the skyline there was Dongmen — pagoda roofs, snack streets, market floors. A walk through the old downtown, at the hour it wakes up.
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Border crossings, payments, neighbourhoods and the people who live here. The things worth knowing before you arrive.

Neighbourhoods4 min read
Before the skyline there was Dongmen — pagoda roofs, snack streets, market floors. A walk through the old downtown, at the hour it wakes up.
Read it
By interest5 min read
Daylight is when Shenzhen works. At night the towers run light shows, the late tables fill up, and the markets keep going. An evening, done properly.

By interest6 min read
Nobody's grandmother is from Shenzhen. That is the best thing about eating here — the whole country cooks in one city. Where to start, dish by dish.

Getting around6 min read
Six ways to cross from Hong Kong into Shenzhen, where each one drops you, and the one thing to sort out before you leave.